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Axles
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F=2.5 -
The softest axle Birel axle -
This is to free up the rear or to take push out of the kart.
F= The second softest axle from Birel
- This comes standard with all models other than shifter
karts. This axle has slightly more grid than the F=2.5.
F2.5 R= The R axle is a tricky axle to describe. It lets the
kart be free, but at the same time, it puts down the most
traction of all the axles. Best used in any "R" series kart.
M= The medium grade axle. This comes standard in all
shifters. This axle would be considered stiff for all
4-cycle applications, use it only if you need a lot more
grip.
K= This axle is the stiffest in our Birel poll. This is
never used in 4-cycle racing and is rarely used in 2-cycle.
It is generally used in shifter racing as a last resort for
getting more rear bite.
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Torsion Bars
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The
torsion bars for all torsion model karts are numbered. These
numbers represent the stiffness of the bar. The number is
located on the inside of the tab for the master cylinder
assembly. The numbers are 1 - 4, with the standard bar not
having a number stamped at all.
# 1 Bar = The lightest bar; Use it in the AT130 model kart
90% of the time. It really frees up the kart and allows for
good tire wear.
# 2 Bar = Slightly more grip. Gives more rear bite.
# 3 Bar = More grip than the # 2. It stiffens the rear of
the kart and is used mostly on the older versions of the
Torsion karts. The version that is unwelded under the fuel
tank.
# 4 Bar = The stiffest bar Birel makes. This is a good bar
for the older version of the Torsion, the one that is
unwelded under the fuel tank. This is a good bar if you will
be racing with hard tires in a 2-cycle class.
HINTS AND TRICKS We have found that a # 1 bar with only one
clamp being used is the best starting off set up for the
Junior 2-cycle or any 4-cycle class. Also before switching
all the bars around, add a clamp to stiffen the kart up. If
that works then change the bar accordingly.
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